Less
More
Archive for February, 2008
The anticipated Jovovich-Hawk Go International line will hit Target this Sunday 02 March. I feel as if I keep writing this story and then the follow-up story which reads something like ‘never mind, it sucks’. I haven’t seen anything interesting in these designer capsule lines in several collections. No one except a 5 year old or someone pregnant can actually look good in a multi-teared chiffon dress. And the average Target shopper seems to understand this which is why they stayed on the racks through clearance. I love Erin Fetherston but that line obviously did not translate well on the racks of Target. I really want to continue covering this story though because I think it’s spectacular that Target makes these super-cool fashion labels accessible to their market -it’s beneficial for all involved.
There’s going to be a lot of competition in this market -I saw a preview of SJP’s Bitten line which has a price point of under $20 (!). It’s mostly basics but that is exactly what it needs to be at that price. The Vera Wang for Kohl’s spring line looks as if it could be amazing -but that can be a whole other story when you see the items in person. I heard the last line was well constructed but I never made the time to go see for myself. We all speak the delicate language of pairing our designer statement piece with a barely visible layer of ‘H&M basic’.
You don’t, however, always get what you pay for -you can buy a designer coat for $1,000 to have the buttons fall off just as easily as an $80 H&M coat. I remember Plum Sykes writing an entire story in Vogue about this happening with her brand new Chloe coat. I like to use Urban Outfitters as an example of this. I call their items disposable clothing -you can find a $50 designer top at any given sample sale that will last a lifetime. For the same price UO offers a poorly designed top that falls apart after one wash -I learned this when I was 20 which was about the last time I stepped inside the clothing section of UO. They are great for books and novelty items like Jesus action figures and fake poop though.
Click here to see the entire Jovovich-Hawk collection in the Target Press Room.
28FebParis Opening
OPENING PARTY
February 29 / 29 Février
Musée d´Art moderne de la Ville de Paris
28FebParis: Day Five
Stella McCartney:: One must admit that upon hearing the daughter of a legend like Sir Paul was going to be a designer, the speculation that privilege would overshadow talent surfaced. But from her first design to her present she has never left me dissatisfied and never allowed her environmentally-friendly objective affect her composition. Plus, I met her and she is a darling, soft-spoken, kind spirit. All photos courtesy of Style.com.
Valentino:: Alessandra Facchinettis’s first collection for this house was a sheer success. Her point of view subtly came across while maintaining the craftsmanship and beauty we’ve always associated with Valentino clothing.
Giambattista Valli:: I don’t usually cover this show for no particular reason but I’ve found it too relevant to continue my neglect.
Haider Ackermann:: A lot of nice pieces in this collection. I’ve picked out the looks that worked but there was some odd layering on the bottom with leather leggings and puffy shorts and it just didn’t work. But I can’t stress enough that what was happening above the waist was brilliant in nearly every look.
Sophia Kokosalaki:: Brilliant as always…
love this dress but the shoes are so wrong
YSL:: I only said this after one other show this season which was Balenciaga but ‘wow!’ So rich, decadent, dark and austere. Sheer perfection! But I must mention one thing which is not directed at this show, but a misunderstanding the public has about what I call high-wasted-horrors. When I see some celeb victim, unable to dress without the urging of Rachel Zoe, that’s when some high-wasted camel toe mishap seems to take place. It’s fine on a runway on ungodly thin models where statements about structure are being expressed, but my support for all that Stefano Pilati does is not a statement that anyone can wear the high-wasted, cropped pants in this collection. The wide-thighed ode to Z. Cavaricci pants appear on many runways for this season -but I urge all to treat the trend very delicately (don’t do it!). That being said, I really love everything about the entire show: the color palette, the hair and eyes -all together it evokes a lot of emotion.
This jacket!!
27FebParis: Day Four
Andrew Gn:: I’d be lying if I said it wasn’t hard for me to pull looks from Andrew Gn’s collection. I wasn’t really feeling this season. All photos in this post courtesy of Style.com
Costume National:: Ennio Capasa’s final episode of his trilogy entitled “the future” certainly evokes the title. This is one of the most prominent labels in my closet(s) -there are four, they are huge and two are primarily devoted to shoes. But this is the reason why CN makes such a strong presence…
Dries Van Noten:: I really love the paring of stark black with bold colors, no less bold print and florals -all of which are trending hard for fall ‘08. I call it sober optimism…not really.
Christian Lacroix:: Holy bleepin’ bleep -this show!…no words, just awe. One look better than the next -it was really challenging to decide on just 10 looks. Go to Style.com for the entire collection…now!
Givenchy:: I love many eras of Givenchy but I must admit a slight loss of intrigue in recent seasons. This time Riccardo Tisci caught my attention with a sharp, cohesive collection…
Hussein Chalayan:: Absolutely brilliant as always…
Bernhard Wilhelm:: I sat through this film at the Tribeca Grand. For any straight man it’s unbearable, but luckily there are none of those in the fashion industry so it was well-received. It’s directed by Nick Knight who is in the top 5 on Our Own Personal Jesus List. Thanks to him founding SHOWstudio you bitches can watch this comfortably from your laptop and avoid the intolerable crowds this type of screening can provoke. I avoid this phrase at all costs because it makes me feel as American as I try not to be but, I don’t get it. Having studied film, this type of presentation draws my eye to the craft rather than the content which is probably why I’m not exclaiming “WTF is this?” Plus, I have huge respect and love for Bernhard Wilhelm & Nick Knight which tends to blind all reason. Click Men In Tights to draw your own conclusions.
26FebParis: Day Three
All photos courtesy of Style.com where you can see complete coverage of the following shows. These are our hand-selected highlights…
Balenciaga:: wow!
Junya Watanabe:: I think we all know that Rami from Project Runway is not going to win -not because he’s not talented but because he is going up against Christian & Jillian. It’s okay though, for 2 reasons: 1. We seem to hear more about the designers from past seasons who didn’t win, than those who did, and 2. He can try and get a job w. Junya who is all about the intricate draping of jersey.
Since Junya is notoriously quiet about his collections, I’m going to take a stab here: I see a story of hope -we have a lot happening in our minds (those sculptural headpieces -I would love to know what is under those black sheaths) and with all our advanced thinking we are still blind to so much (symbolized by headpieces extending to cover the full face/eyes). But, hope is evident in the final chapters of this story which introduce hints of floral to the black palette and clarity which is evident in the head-clinging wraps, no longer covering the face. Right, that or we’ll all nuke each other and that will be the end of us. Whatever our fate or the intention of JW, I love this collection -I’m declaring optimism is the new black.
Tao:: this is a fun show with lots of editorial pieces!
Viktor & Rolf:: We heart V&R but we are going to say ‘NO’ as in NO comment on this one. You’ll have to click here for the full show. I don’t even have time to wrap my head around this one…
Ann Demeulemeester:: My love for A.D. is deep and real. I was once dating a guy I was still a little unsure of until he came by to get my approval on a new A. Demeulemeester suit he purchased at Barney’s. His expiration date was extended another two weeks. Her clothes have a very large presence in my closet -I personally don’t do shearling so I’lll be focusing on the other layers, but this show is impeccable. I would easily enforce the final look shown here as the official uniform of The Army of M.E.
Comme des Garcons:: The Army of M.E. naturally covets CdG. In reference to this collection one of Rei’s comments included, “this is Comme des Garcons’ bad taste” -I’m not going to speculate much more than saying if you want to see the other looks click here. Underwear as outerwear (bad underwear too) and big poofy pink tulle -you’ve been warned. There is always a place within fashion for the sardonic and we’re happy that it’s making a comeback this season.
Veronique Branquinho:: Belgian designers hold a special place in my heart -I just love the architectural modernity and refined, grown-up goth feel. These were my favorite looks from this collection. Although I can appreciate the pleated skirts and boxy blazers they suit so few womens’ bodies.
26FebParis Party
26FebJeremy Scott
courtesy of mark…the cobrasnake…please click here to see the whole show and shots of the after party.
The Army of M.E. hearts Jefferson & Anouk
Dolla Dolla bill y’all
I came up with the idea of actual chandeliers as earrings years ago -love it!
25FebParis: Day Two
As always, all photos courtesy of the best in runway photos- Style.com
Undercover:: a few looks from this show that gave me a reminiscent feeling of the 1966 Francois Truffaut film depiction of Farenheit 451 -yes, I’m weird…
Maison Martin Margiela:: forever been one of my favorite labels, I always enjoy shopping the boutique on Montpensier in Paris -somewhat different experience than the shop here on Greenwich (wink). Although triple M pioneered the current strong shoulder revolution, I must admit feeling a bit WTF?! with this new shoulder concept (see 4th photo) And that padded armor-like neck piece in the 5th photo -I get it but I don’t really like it, even for runway. The final chapter of cut-out shoulders recalls memories of Miami -I hate Miami, it’s the least fashionable city in my opinion. The individualized items such as the printed tights, snakeskin boots (fab) and shockingly refined clutches seem to attract my attention in this story. I also like the movement in these asymmetrical silk pieces. For more of this show click here, for shop and label details, check out their DOS-esque site here.
Vivienne Westwood:: this Dame of fashion enlisted the help of children in her creations for the’ eco-warriors’ to defend our climate in crisis. The result is quite fun -we must show the two looks on stilts as well as one of the more wearable pieces (yellow dress in photo 7). I must exclaim my dislike for the straight-toe shoe. This is what low-end shoe retailers push on the general public and I just think it should never be promoted by anyone in the fashion field. I have strong opinions with footwear though -I will never subscribe to the ongoing trend of the clunky and chunky. A classic rounded toe is always acceptable and so much more appealing than this sawed-off look. I understand the concept and relevance of it in this story, but to the general public -I find this shoe a big fashion don’t!
Yohji Yamamoto:: love, love, love -as always. Maintaining his strong vision while still moving ahead and telling us something new. I find all these looks very wearable…
Begins tomorrow (Feb. 26) @ 10am at 453 Broome St. on the second floor. 80% off all seasons from ‘07. The sale continues until Feb. 28.
Recent Comments